Wednesday 21 March 2012

Voodoo Chile

Chile con carne, alongside the other seminal pub-grub classics such as lasagne and baked potatoes, is one dish that is so often massacred beyond culinary imagination that it is often hard to believe that what you are eating is actually chile con carne.

The usual culprits of this pub-grub offence are the use of frozen mince, not enough or indeed no spice, sloppy presentation (and here I'm talking about water content, not quinelles and garnishes), and of course let's not forget the most abhorrent of transgression - calling it chilli con carne.

As you probably know by now, I am rather opinionated, in the respect that I like to try to be authentic and I like to understand the ethos behind my cooking.  My relationship with CCC (Chile con carne) is no exception.

  •   Chile con carne literally means "spice with meat".  It should never be called chilli con carne.
  •   A chile should be made with a cut of beef, not minced beef.  Braising steak, or chuck/skirt of beef are ideal - something that can withstand long, slow cooking.  Having said this, I frequently do make chile with minced beef, and I confess I rather enjoy it.
  •   Let's be honest - there are a plethora of regional differences in how chile is served.  Rightly or wrongly, the following trespassers are used - tomatoes, beans, chocolate and garlic.   My personal take is that I like to use all except chocolate.  I have used it, but I'm not entirely sure I like it.
  •   Chile needs to be slow cooked.  A 30 minute chile is never going to taste punchy.
There is an unwritten rule in my house that chile con carne is exclusively served with rice (basmati not long-grain), soured cream and grated cheddar cheese (eugh).


My only rule is that (as long as I'm not expecting to feed this to my 4 year old) I can use a barrage of various dried chilli's.


Here's how I make it:

  •   Sweat a whole, finely chopped onion in a pan with 3 cloves of finely chopped garlic and one bay leaf.
  •   After 10 minutes on medium heat, push the onions up to the side of the skillet pan.  Add 500g (for 2 people) of braising steak (or minced beef).  Fry until it is nicely coloured.
  •   Stir the onions and garlic into the beef.  
  •   Add 1 heaped teaspoon of ground cumin, 1/3 teaspoon  of smoked paprika.  Chilli-wise you can add 1 teaspoon of hot chilli powder, or a concoction of your own dried chilli's to suit your taste.
  •   Crank up the heat.  Add a small glass of full-bodied red wine (a shiraz, or merlot for example).  Boil off the booze and reduce slightly.
  •   Add a can of chopped tomatoes, one teaspoon of salt and a good pinch of dried oregano.
  •   Add a can of drained and washed kidney beans.
  •   Cook uncovered on a low heat for minimum 1.5-2 hours.  Stir occasionally.
  •   When you are ready to serve, juice a lemon (or a lime), add the juice. 
  •   Check the seasoning.  If you want to fire it up a bit more you can add some tabasco at this stage.
Serve it with some basmati rice, soured cream, chopped chives on top and if you desire, some grated cheese.



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